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Washington State's Olympic Peninsula Loop |
Solitude, Hot Soaks, Native Cultures, Wildlife, Storm Watching, & Wineries
Washington State's Olympic Peninsula Loop
The Olympic Peninsula is a mecca for travelers from all over the world. Visitors are drawn by the wonders of the ancient rain forests, the wildness of its ocean beaches, and the mysteries of the Hood Canal. Rich native cultures have inhabited the land for thousands of years, and a heritage deeply rooted in logging and fishing is evident at every turn. The National Park, with its majestic mountains, vast glaciers, and wilderness trails, lures hikers and climbers. Rushing rivers, pristine lakes, distinctive wildlife, old growth forests, and magnificent vistas offer unlimited opportunities for fishers, naturalists, and photographers. Isolated and unique, this is a fragile environment that demands respect from every visitor.
Always be aware of its delicate nature and tread lightly to preserve this precious jewel. Pet owners should plan to leave their furry friends at home (domestic animals are not allowed on trails in the National Park and Refuges). During the summer months millions of travelers visit the Olympic Peninsula - it is a popular destination for both local residents and out-of-state visitors. Spring and autumn are wonderful times to take this road trip. The crowds are down, and the remote beaches, fog-shrouded forests, and lush, green river valleys offer quiet solitude; wildlife refuges provide sanctuary for a multitude of migrating and wintering birds, and storms pound the coast with thundering surf. The cooler seasons bring color to the native vine maples, ferns, and wild rhododendrons. Along the Hood Canal, seafood lovers can indulge in the fall oyster and spring shrimp harvests. No matter what time of year, in order to capture the true essence of this magical place, take your time, explore its natural wonders in-depth, get off the beaten path, and visit its towns - each unique in their own way. It is guaranteed to be an experience that will leave lasting memories.
Motorists can access the Olympic Peninsula by several different routes - via car ferry from Seattle to Winslow, Edmonds to Kingston, or Whidbey Island to Port Townsend; by driving north on SR 16 out of Tacoma, connecting with SR 3 at Bremerton, or taking US 101 from Olympia. This road trip covers as much ground as possible beginning in Seattle, following the US 101 loop around the North Olympic Peninsula and along the Pacific Coast, visiting Grays Harbor, and finishing up by driving along the western shore of the Hood Canal, through historic Port Gamble, to Kingston where you return by ferry to Edmonds. Plan, at the very minimum, a 2-day excursion. There are accommodations of all kinds along the way - from campgrounds and cabins to motels, lodges, and B & Bs. Refer to our City or Map Indexes for their listings.
Board the Washington State Ferry to Winslow at the Coleman Dock on Seattle's waterfront. Stop for a stroll around this quaint village, then follow SR 305 out of the town. Wine lovers should stop at the Bainbridge Island Vineyards & Winery; its winemaker specializes in European-style wines available only at their tasting room. The Rich Passage Winery, which specializes in hand-crafted, barrel-fermented premium wines, is located on Day Road off SR 305; call (206) 842-8199 for an appointment. Cross over the narrow Agate Passage, and stop off at the Port Madison Indian Reservation. This is the burial site of Chief Sealth; take in the Suquamish Museum and its famous "Eyes of Chief Seattle" exhibit. Then proceed to the Scandinavian town of Poulsbo, situated on picturesque Liberty Bay. Take the time to visit its historic downtown district - filled with specialty shops and bakeries, and home to the famous Marine Science Center. For those who are intrigued by submarines and the underwater world take a short side trip to Keyport to explore the fascinating exhibits at the Naval Undersea Museum. Join up with SR 3 heading north to the Hood Canal Bridge, gateway to the Olympic Peninsula. This is one of Washington's famous floating bridges, and, undeniably, the most scenic. However, on occasion it will close temporarily due to high winds on a stormy day, or to allow the elusive Trident submarine to pass through.
Head west on SR 104 across the Hood Canal; just after the bridge on the right is Paradise Bay Road. For travelers who want to visit the Victorian seaport town of Port Townsend, this is an especially scenic approach. Drive along the water through the resort community of Port Ludlow and the friendly village of Port Hadlock, then follow SR 19 to its juncture with SR 20 north to Port Townsend. You can spend several hours touring the area; historic Victorian homes and B & Bs sit on a bluff overlooking Admiralty Inlet; shops, galleries, and restaurants in downtown district offer selections that are distinctly Northwestern. The newly opened FairWinds Winery is located just outside of town at 1924 Hastings Ave. W (call ahead, 360-385-6899). Nearby Fort Worden has expansive beaches with scenic vistas, and a Coastal Artillery Museum and Marine Science interpretive center. Take SR 20 to US 101 and travel west to sunny Sequim.
Stop at the Jamestown Native Gallery on Sequim Bay. As you enter Sequim, watch for signs to the Neuharth Winery. It makes its home in a huge 1930's dairy barn where visitors can sample their "dinner" and proprietary wines in the afternoons, Wednesday through Sunday. Just west of town take the Taylor Cut Off Road; follow the signs to the Lost Mountain Winery, nestled in the foothills above Sequim; it specializes in natural reds styled after the winemaker's Italian ancestors; but, be sure to call ahead to make arrangements for a visit. 5 miles northwest of town, off Kitchen-Dick Road, is the Dungeness National Wildlife Refuge; located on the Dungeness Spit. This is a major wintering ground for brandt and other waterfowl.
The seaport town of Port Angeles is your next stop. Stroll along the bustling City Pier; visit the Arthur D. Feiro Marine Lab; or hike the Waterfront Trail out along the scenic Ediz Hook. Travelers to Victoria B. C. can catch a ferry here. The downtown district offers an array of galleries, antique shops, and restaurants. Camaraderie Cellars, which features limited productions of premium Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc, is located just west of town off US 101, on Benson Road; visitors are welcome if they call ahead. Follow Mt. Angeles Road (watch for signs) out of town to Hurricane Ridge - a short 17-mile drive to the top. The Olympic National Park Headquarters and Pioneer Museum and Visitor's Center are on the way; be sure to stop to collect valuable information, maps, and any necessary permits. You'll be climbing to 5,230' (snow could be a factor in late fall and winter) where there are awesome views of Mt. Olympus and the park's rugged interior; on a clear day look north and see far across the Strait of Juan de Fuca to Canada. There are several short trails along the ridge that will take hikers to great vantage points.
Sol Duc Falls
Get back on US 101 heading west. Watch for the Elwha River Road; follow it up the valley, going right at the fork, for about 9 miles until it ends; then park and walk 2.5 miles along an old road bed to the Boulder Creek Campground (if snow is on the ground it could be as much as a 4-mile hike because the Park Service maintains this road in winter and it may not go all the way to the end). This is a steep hike, but you will be rewarded with breathtaking mountain and forest views and several hot springs bubbling out of the rocks - one overlooks a waterfall. Enjoy a soothing soak before returning to the highway. Now just two lanes, US 101 passes Lake Sutherland, then winds around the south shore of beautiful Lake Crescent, nestled at the base of emerald green mountains. Park at the Storm King Ranger Station to stroll along the shore or take an easy hike to the picturesque Marymere Falls. Scenic 90-minute boat tours are available at Fairholm in the summer and fall. For those travelers who prefer not to rough it, take the 12.6-mile drive up to the Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort, situated on the Sol Duc River in the Olympic National Park; it offers hot mineral baths and massages. It's open daily May through September, weekends only in April and October, and then closes in the winter (the road in not maintained in winter). This is an exceptionally beautiful valley; plan to hike along the river to the Sol Duc Falls (just 1 mile up from the end of the road).
Sea caves at Cape Flattery
 If time allows, a side trip to Neah Bay is a must. Just before US 101 turns south, take SR 113, which connects with SR 112, and head northwest to the fishing villages of Clallam Bay and Seiku. From here on the road hugs the scenic coastline along the Strait of Juan de Fuca and offers many opportunities for beachcombing and picturetaking. The village at Neah Bay is the heart of the Makah Nation. For thousands of years the Makahs have hunted and fished in the waters that cradle their ancestral home. To learn more about their native heritage visit their unique Cultural and Research Center - built in 1979 to house 500-year old relics and artifacts unearthed by archeologists at Ozette, their ancient whaling village at Cape Alava. It also features a full-scale replica of a cedar longhouse, as well as handcarved whaling and fishing canoes. Continue west along the Cape Loop Road to Cape Flattery, the most northwesterly point in the contiguous 48 states. From the lookout trail, visitors can view the ocean and nearby Tatoosh Island; watch for trail signs to the sea caves. Over 200 species of birds, including the tufted puffin, find refuge on the rocky headlands along the coast; there are a number of vantage points from the road that offer excellent viewing opportunities. At Hobuck Beach follow the Hobuck Beach Road to Sooes Beach and the National Fish Hatchery - fall is the best time to watch the returning chinook salmon. Before heading back out to US 101, drive out to Lake Ozette; from the ranger station hike 3 miles to Sand Point, one of the most beautiful wilderness beaches on the coast.
Once back on the highway watch for signs to the Sol Duc Fish Hatchery where interpretive displays educate visitors about this important Washington resource. Then head west to either Railto Beach, gateway to the North Wilderness Coast, or to the village of La Push, on the Quileute Indian Reservation, where there is easy access to several scenic beaches. Offshore rocks along the coast lie within the Quillayute Needles Wildlife Refuge and the Washington Island Wilderness Area. Both offer sanctuary to birds and marine mammals and excellent wildlife viewing opportunities (visitors should remain at least 200 yards away). Before heading for the Hoh River Valley stop in Forks to chat with the locals at one of the friendly cafes, and visit the Timber Museum to learn all about their colorful logging history. Follow the Hoh Road along the Hoh River Valley (keep an eye out for Roosevelt elk) to the ancient rain forest, one of only a few temperate rain forests on the planet. From the Visitor's Center follow interpretive loop trails that take you into an incredible world where lush plant life seems to cover every square inch of space. Overhead is a living canopy of mosses, lichens, and ferns hanging from the branches of towering trees; underfoot is a forest floor carpeted with spongy ground covers.
Ruby Beach
 Follow the Hoh River to the Pacific, then drive along US 101 to Kalaloch; this stretch of the highway hugs the Pacific Coast, and offers some of the country's most dramatic ocean vistas. Access any number of wilderness beaches along the route - Ruby Beach, with its picturesque seastacks, is a favorite for photographers. Continue south to Queets, then east to Lake Quinault through the Quinault Indian Reservation. Taholah, on the coast, is the tribal center, but delicious native seafood products can be purchased at Quinault. Take the North Shore Road which follows along the lake, up the fertile Quinault River Valley, and eventually connects with the South Shore Road (it's unpaved at the upper reaches and not recommended for large RVs), which will take you back to the highway. Motorists can view yet another impressive temperate rain forest as they drive along the road, but to fully appreciate this unique environment, park the car, and explore it on foot. Some of the world's largest trees are found here, and the valley supports a diverse population of wildlife. Most of the trailheads are near the North Fork and Graves Creek Campgrounds, located off the loop route (watch for signs at the bridge approx. 15 miles in). The South Shore area also has a popular rain forest nature trail, and offers a variety of visitor amenities, including a store, bike rentals, and accommodations ranging from rustic cabins to the grand old Lake Quinault Lodge.
Head south on US 101. Past Neilton watch for the Moclips Highway (Forest Road #2266), and drive west 5 miles to the Quinault National Fish Hatchery. In the fall adult salmon beging returning to their spawning grounds. The Visitor Center features exhibits about the Quinault Indian culture, the operation of the hatchery, and the overall role it plays in lives of people on the reservation. From here travelers can elect to continue west to SR 109 to explore miles of ocean beaches, and the seaside resort towns of Moclips, Pacific Beach, Copalis Beach, Ocean City, and Ocean Shores. Or, return to US 101 and proceed to Grays Harbor, a protected deep water harbor. The river town of Hoquiam offers a notable slice of Northwest history; stroll its 8th Street Landing and Waterfront Park, and don't miss the Polson Museum and Hoquiam Castle. The Grays Harbor estuary is one of the four major staging areas for shorebirds in North America - a critical refueling point for waterfowl migrating to and from their northern breeding grounds. Some years the numbers of birds that have stopped here have exceeded a million. These large flocks usually arrive in late April during their spring migration, then return between July and late October. Take SR 109 to Paulson Road, turn south, then west (adjacent to the Bowerman Field airport); watch for peregrine falcons, bald eagles, and merlins, too. Travel east on US 101 a few short miles to Aberdeen. At the turn of the century, this was a bustling seaport - the heart of Washington's booming timber industry. Tour the historic downtown district for a peek at its colorful past.
Take SR 105, to visit the South Beach area - dubbed the Cranberry Coast for its hundreds of acres of cranberry bogs. Stop at the cranberry museum in Grayland. Miles of ocean beaches offer months of sunny summer fun and exciting fall and winter storm watching opportunities. The seaside town of Westport is most popular for its spring whale watching and summer sportfishing charters, but the quiet off-season is also a wonderful time to explore this charming town. This is home to Washington's tallest lighthouse, a fascinating Maritime Museum, and restaurants that offer the freshest of seafood on their menus.
From Aberdeen drive east on US 12 to Elma. This delightful town, bedecked with historic murals, is also home to the Pacific Northwest Bigfoot Society Museum - a must for the curiosity seeker. Form here pick up SR 8 to McCleary, famous for its historic hotel. Take the SR 108 cutoff to US 101 heading north at Kamiche, just a few miles south of the lumber town of Shelton. Not far beyond the Skokomish River is the southern-most tip of the Hood Canal, a glacier-carved fjord that divides the Kitsap and Olympic Peninsulas. US 101 follows along a narrow corridor between the west bank of the Hood Canal and the eastern range of the Olympic Mountains that drops down to the water's edge; this is an especially beautiful drive, to say the least. It provides access to a number wilderness areas and backcountry trails.
Stop at the Hoodsport Winery, famous for its delicious fruit wines, right off the highway south of Hoodsport. This tiny village services touring motorists and visitors to Lake Cushman and the Staircase area of the National Park, located at the north end of the lake on the banks of the North Fork Skokomish River; trails take hikers along the river and through old-growth forests. The drive along the shoreline is very scenic, especially after it turns to gravel beyond the State Park.
Massive snowfields and glaciers high in the Olympic Mountains feed the major rivers along the eastern slopes; these plunge down short rocky courses before pouring into the Hood Canal. As you drive along the highway watch for signs that direct you up the river valleys of the Hamma Hamma, Duckabush, and Dosewallips. Their campgrounds close for the season in late fall, but trails from these areas are still accessible and venture deep into the high country - offering solitude and spectacular scenery even on short hikes. The Hood Canal is a popular recreation area, but it also provides habitat for salmon, clams, oysters, and shrimp. Large commercial oyster farms are centered around natural spawning grounds in Quilcene and Dabob Bays, but small growers are located all along the tidelands of the canal, and travelers can stop at outlets to purchase fresh or smoked oysters. A few miles north of the scenic town of Brinnon, stop at Seal Rock, the site of an ancient native camp and one of only a few campgrounds on National Forest lands located on saltwater. It is set on 47 acres of old-growth, and offers a unique look at interacting marine, intertidal, and forest ecosystems; a new interpretive trail elaborates on this delicate balance. Wildlife is abundant - watch for harbor seals, the marbled murrelet, and bald eagles.
Continue north on US 101 and watch for a sign to the Mt. Walker Lookout. A steep narrow gravel road climbs 4 miles to the mountain summit at 2,804' (not recommended for RVs). If the weather is bad, don't make this drive - it would be treacherous; the Forest Service will close it for the season during the first big storm in late fall. Otherwise, on a clear day, the view will be awesome. It gives a unique perspective of the Puget Sound region and its many waterways, stretching all the way from Mount Baker to Mount Rainier. The western vista looks back over the Olympic Mountains.
Port Gamble
 Further up the highway visit the Quilcene National Fish Hatchery. Chinook, chum, and silver salmon are reared and released here. Adults begin to return in late fall to spawn. From the town of Quilcene, take Center Road to SR 104; and head east across the Hood Canal Bridge. Follow the highway to Port Gamble; until recently this was the site of the oldest operating lumber mill in the United States - it shut down in early 1996. This historic company town is reminiscent of 1900th century New England; stop to stroll along its tree-lined walkways and to visit its museum. Continue on to the ferry landing in Kingston. If time allows, after lining up for the boat, get out and walk up to the nearby shops. They cater to travelers - great snacks, espresso, and exclusive Northwest merchandise.
Before heading out to I-5, stop in the picturesque town of Edmonds. Explore its waterfront beaches and downtown area. There are galleries, specialty boutiques, and many fine restaurants. To learn more about its fascinating past visit the Edmonds Historical Museum, housed in the Carnegie Library at 118 5th Ave. N.
When traveling on the Olympic Peninsula always bring protective clothing and rain gear, be prepared for sudden, and sometimes extreme, weather changes, and be beware of high surf and incoming tides on the beaches. For more information on Washington's National Wildlife Refuges and Fish Hatcheries refer to Flora and Fauna in our Outdoor Fun section. See the Olympic National Park listing under National Parks also in Outdoor Fun. Have a safe and fulfilling trip.
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